camera modes

Automatic mode –  Auto mode tells your camera to use it’s best judgement to select shutter speed, aperture, ISO, white balance, focus and flash to take the best shot that it can. This mode will give you nice results in many shooting conditions, however you need to keep in mind that you’re not telling your camera any extra information about the type of shot you’re taking so it will be ‘guessing’ as to what you want.

Portrait mode – When you switch to portrait mode your camera will automatically select a large aperture which helps to keep your background out of focus. Portrait mode works best when you’re photographing a single subject so get in close enough to your subject.

Macro mode – Macro mode lets you move your closer into your subject to take a close up picture. It’s great for shooting flowers, insects or other small objects. Different digital cameras will have macro modes with different capabilities including different focusing distances

Landscape mode – This mode is almost the exact opposite of portrait mode in that it sets the camera up with a small aperture to make sure as much of the scene you’re photographing will be in focus as possible. It’s therefore ideal for capturing shots of wide scenes, particularly those with points of interest at different distances from the camera.

Sports mode – Photographing moving objects is what sports mode is designed for. It is ideal for photographing any moving objects including people playing sports, pets, cars, wildlife etc. Sports mode attempts to freeze the action by increasing the shutter speed. 

Night mode – Night mode is for shooting in low light situations and sets your camera to use a longer shutter speed to help capture details of the background but it also fires off a flash to illuminate the foreground

Movie mode – This mode extends your digital camera from just capturing still images to capturing moving ones. 

Aperture priority mode – This mode is really a semi-automatic (or semi-manual) mode where you choose the aperture and where your camera chooses the other settings (shutter speed, white balance, ISO etc) so as to ensure you have a well balanced exposure. Aperture priority mode is useful when you’re looking to control the depth of field in a shot (usually a stationary object where you don’t need to control shutter speed).

Shutter priority mode – Shutter priority is very similar to aperture priority mode but is the mode where you select a shutter speed and the camera then chooses all of the other settings. You would use this mode where you want to control over shutter speed (obviously). For example when photographing moving subjects (like sports) you might want to choose a fast shutter speed to freeze the motion.

Program mode – Program mode is similar to Auto but gives you a little more control over some other features including flash, white balance, ISO etc. Check your digital camera’s manual for how the Program mode differs from Automatic in your particular model.

Manual mode – In this mode you have full control over your camera and need to think about all settings including shutter speed, aperture, ISO, white balance, flash etc. It gives you the flexibility to set your shots up as you wish. Of course you also need to have some idea of what you’re doing in manual mode so most digital camera owners that I have anything to do with tend to stick to one of the priority modes.

alternative camera angles

apt: 1.7
shutter speed: 1/120
ISO: 100
apt: 1.7
shutter speed : 1/120
ISO: 100
apt: 1.7
ISO: 100
shutter speed: 1/120
https://camerajabber.com/photo-composition-ideas-how-to-add-impact-unusual-angles/

I chose this image because although it was taken at an unusual angle, it looks realistically what the Eiffel tower would look like in person and up close.

conceptual self portrait

Cindy Sherman certainly has some notable work while I was scrolling through some of her work I was really fascinated by it and I will say that I understand why her work is so widely known in the photography industry. I chose this photo because its really aesthetically pleasing and simple but really cool to look at. I’m not sure what her message was or if she even had one for this particular piece but I believe it was solely for looks. Her photography does inspire me to maybe look into the photography work field or even as a side hobby.

read and write: lenses

while reading this article I learned many important facts about lenses and how to choose a lens perfect for your camera. One interesting fact I took note of is when confused on what type of lens your camera needs the first question you should ask yourself is “what will I be shooting?”. It could be sports, wildlife, birds, landscapes, architecture, portraits, or any number of other subjects. Another important factor is where you stand with your budget. the next fact that I found was that you should find a lens that suits the types of angles you take your photos in, wider angles should be used when prominent foreground objects are present. wide angles are also great for tight areas like small rooms, cars, caves, etc. lenses in the standard zoom range will cover moderate wide angles to moderate telephone phone lengths. Prime lenses are lenses that are just one focal length.

depth of field explained

A camera can only focus its lens at a single point, but there will be an area that stretches in front of and behind this focus point that still appears sharp. This zone is known as the depth of field. It’s not a fixed distance, it changes in size and can be described as either ‘shallow. This can be determined by how close or far you are to your object. This effect can also be achieved through editing.

In my own words depth of field is how focused or unfocused you are on one certain object in your photo. when working for a shallow depth of field, your background should be completely blurred and your camera should only be focused on one single object. when working for a good depth of field the photographer should be far from their object and the background should be pretty visible.

depth of field

AP: 1.7
ISO: 320
Shutter speed : 1/49
AP: 1.7
ISO: 25
Shutter speed : 1/179
judging by how closely this was taken I wanna say that the photographer had a very long lens on. my guess for their aperture is 1.7 and ISO my guess is 300 and for shutter speed I’m guessing 1/49
my guess for this photo is aperture of 1.7 and ISO of 25 and shutter speed of 1/25

shadows & light

apreture : 1.7
ISO: 25
Shutter speed: 1/ 4098
aperture :1.7
ISO : 25
Shutter speed: 1/49
I chose this photo because it successfully represents shadow and light. It looks like the background is completely dark and theirs only a tiny bit of light shinning on the board. This photo is a great portrayal of shadow and light because of that reason. In order to get a good shadow you either have to have a lot of light or just enough to capture your object. This photo proves my statement because although lots of sunlight is required to create a shadow it can also be not much but just enough. I have always preferred this type of lighting because of how aesthetically pleasing it looks. I think that the most pleasing and complimenting colorway has always been black and white. This is why i chose this image, because of how it portrays my taste. I think I have always preferred a dark shadowy look because of how cool it looks especially in photography.

texture

aperture : 1.7
ISO : 25
Shutter speed : 1/1163
Aperture :1.7
ISO : 25
Shutter speed : 1/1779
Aperture : 1.7
ISO : 25
Shutter speed : 1/954
This photo successfully represents texture. Not only that but this photo is so up close that it’s a bit hard to understand what it is, its actually a dandelion. when i first saw it i thought it sort of looked like a bacteria. It is so up close you can see the stems of the flower and I don’t think iv’e ever been able to see that myself with my vision.

It also looks like it was taken in gloomy lighting because it does not seem to have much sunlight in the photo. The photographer either used a lens that can zoom in really closely or he/she got this effect through editing either way this photo is remarkable.

13 camera settings every beginner needs to know

1. Setting the exposure using the histogram

The camera’s LCD screen might be a good way to tell if what you’re doing is right, but it’s not entirely reliable in conditions like harsh sunlight. The best way to tell if your exposure is correct is by consulting the histogram. Learn how to read it and make the necessary adjustments and until it indicates a proper exposure.

2. RAW

Most cameras produce high quality jpgs, yet they’re still no match for RAW files. The downside to the jpg format is that it’s a compressed file. Not all the information that should be there is present. Color, contrast and detail are all affected by this compression. To put simpler, shooting in RAW format will give you access to the full capabilities of your camera.

3. Selecting focusing points manually

Your camera has the option of selecting the auto focus points for you, but it can’t always anticipate correctly. That’s why learning to change the AF points manually is a useful skill. It will improve focusing accuracy and reduce chances of missing important shots.

4. Learn all AF modes

Most cameras come with different auto focus modes like One-shot AF, Servo AF and AI Auto focus. All of these modes have different uses, depending on subject and situation. The one-shot mode will stop refocusing once it’s locked onto the subject. It will remain locked as long as you hold your finger on the shutter release, half pressed. AI- Servo AF mode won’t lock the focus and it will constantly refocus. It is a great focusing mode for sports and other fast moving subjects. AI focus will automatically from one -shot to Servo if it detects movement in the frame. This is a very brief explanation of AF modes. It’s best to read your camera’s manual and to experiment with all of them.

5. Aperture Priority

In aperture priority mode, your camera will vary the exposure settings depending on the aperture value you set. Having complete control over aperture means control over depth of field. This is a great setting for shooting portraits with a blurred background.

6. Shutter Priority

The shutter priority mode works just like aperture priority, in the sense that it gives you complete control over shutter speed while making all the other settings automatically, according to the selected value. This is a great setting for situations where you don’t want the shutter speed to go over or under a specific value. Fast moving subjects can be shot in this mode, but it’s also very useful for low light situations where you don’t want the shutter speed to be slower than what you can use to shoot hand held.

7. Control motion blur

Motion blur often comes from using a shutter speed that is too slow for holding the camera in your hands. Every photographer has a maximum low speed they can use. For some it’s 1/60th, but others can shoot hand held at 1/8th. It’s a question of practice. Learn what the lowest speed is for you and stick to it for motion free images.

8. Manual White Balance

All digital cameras have a few white balance presets.While they can do a fairly decent job, we recommend learning to set white balance manually, according to each lighting situation.

9. Drive Modes

This isn’t a major setting, but you never know when you’re going to have drive modes. Essentially, there are three of them: single shot, continuous low and continuous high. The first mode obviously allows you to shoot one frame at a time. It great for studio work or when shooting anything you have complete control over. CL is great for portraits when you have an expressive model and don’t want to miss any interesting faces. CH is the shooting mode for sports, wildlife and anything that moves fast.

9. Metering modes

There are three metering modes in most cameras, each with a specific job. They have different names depending on camera manufacturer, but essentially they behave the same. The best way to master metering modes is to start by reading the camera manual. After that, photograph the same scene using all three modes and compare the results.

10. ISO

Learn how to select the correct ISO value depending on the lighting conditions. Lower values are great when there is plenty of light to work with. Higher ISO values are needed for working in low light. Just keep the noise levels in mind.

11. Auto-ISO

We’re generally not fond of any auto setting, but auto ISO will help you when shooting hand held. It will increase or decrease the value in order to allow you to shoot with a shutter speed fast enough for hand held operation.

12. Exposure compensation

It is a +/- scale that will tell your camera to increase or decrease exposure, depending on your needs. It works for all semi-automatic modes (P, Av, TV) and will influence exposure in increments. Be careful not to set it too high or low from the first attempt and instead try to get to a correct exposure gradually.

13. Manual exposure

The last stage of learning how to use your camera’s settings is full manual control. You can’t call yourself a real photographer until you’ve learned to control every little setting on your camera. Only then will you be able to use it at its full potential.

z

composition

This photo is a great example of good composition because the plane is in the center making it the part that catches the eye.
This photo is also a good example of composition because the waterfall is the brightest part of the picture and its in the center.
This photo’s most eye catching part is the huge tree in the center also making it a perfect example of composition.
This photo is probably my favorite because of how aesthetically pleasing it is but again the tree is the center of the viewers attention making it a perfect example.
This image shows good contrast because the subject of interest is dark unlike the rest of the photo.
this image is a great example of viewpoint because this angle is probably a lot more suitable for this photo than any other angle.
This image also strongly represents viewpoint because the angle it was taken in is very suitable.
this image is a great representation of diagonals because of the sharp lines that are never ending.
this photo is also a good representation of diagonals because of the sharp lines.
This image is an excellent representation of simplicity because the main subject of attention is not being blocked by any background object.
this image is a good representation of contrast barbecue the only light in the photo is the object of interest the res in pitch black.